Shanghai Fashion Week Report | Y chromosome of fashion

Author: Queennie Yang and Tianwei Zhang

"GQ One Day" brings a variety of men's costume interpretations, while Deepmoss depicts a Persian girl style picture.

Shanghai, China – Regardless of population or consumption potential, the industry has always believed that China's menswear market is promising. According to Euromonitor data, the market value was RMB 492 billion in 2015 and will reach 585 billion yuan in 2020. However, if we look at it, China's fashion market is showing a bipolar trend. Men's clothing is especially popular. The traditional men's clothing brand with strong commercial taste dominates the wearing of ordinary Chinese men, while the men's clothing created by independent designers is on the channel. At a disadvantage, and being regarded as a fancy dress by the mainstream, plus men's clothing is more tailored than women's wear, rather than styling, making the Chinese men's designer who can stand out from the crowd even more.

How to interpret the DNA of Chinese men's clothing? Is it still boring, or can you play more styles? The men’s magazine “QQ GQ”, which has always been committed to fostering local new men’s fashion designers, tried to present six brand demonstrations on the “GQ Day” of the Labeling Week at Shanghai Fashion Week (the winners judged by the expert jury will The “GQ China Presents” showcase held during the Menswear Week in London) and four static displays show the fashion of boys, men and men in the eyes of young designers.

Hiuman Spring/Summer 2017 Men's Collection | Image Source: The other party provides

Zhou Xiaowen's new series depicts a group of ordinary people in Hong Kong. As the designer said in the short film that was shown in the later stage, "Go to Mong Kok, you can hide yourself." In general, the models that walk around the ring stage are like the strangers you see on the street. You probably know what is behind them. The story, but can not determine the true character they hide. The designer assigned a role to each model, but who they are, the decision is in the audience.

In Hiuman's show, there are fashionable young people wearing jacketed tannin jackets, long-haired men wearing plaid pajamas, smirking at you, and more sluts with oily heads. There is absolutely no clothing in the blazer. Behind the background is a short blonde girl in lacquered black with short plaid shorts. Is she exposed or is she just trying to prove her presence? Wearing a windbreaker, wearing a fisherman's hat, a boy carrying a large nylon bag is a scavenger or a loyal reader of Hypebeast? This group of people is absolutely interesting, but who are they?

This series reflects to some extent the crisis of self-cognition of contemporary people. Every sentence spoken by young people in the short film is a trial of self-existence. Unconsciously walking around the streets of Hong Kong, going up and down in the subway, eating in the tea restaurant, accompanying the goldfish in the public housing, if it is not the height and appearance of the model, and the design clothes, you really I thought this was a short documentary about the survival of the younger generation in Hong Kong, which was filmed by Nowness. I forgot the time, forgot the meaning of existence, and even began to sigh that the time of sunset is faster than I imagined. I can have so much time to pity myself, and I think life is not smooth.

The designer told BoF that she wanted to discover and present the reality of Chinese street this season, rather than the imported street style of Street Style. At this point, she has been very successful. The wide suit silhouette of the Hong Kong film in the golden age, the plaid pattern of men's underwear sold on the women's street, the Indian gown worn by the residents of Chongqing Building, the designer from Guangdong must have indulged in the world depicted in TVB from an early age. Interestingly, the world like Beijing and Shanghai is not far away.

Wan Hung Spring/Summer 2017 Men's Collection|Source: Provided by the other party

Designer Zhang Yunhong's eponymous brand Wan Hung, whose Spring/Summer 2017 collection is inspired by his hometown of Hainan Island. Transform the Zhongshi Building into a beach paved with fabric. Beaches, shallow seas, deep seas, the color changes from reddish to dark blue. There are even worn out clothes and shoes on the sea. In the international tourist island, it is natural to enjoy the beach in the sunshine. The model's sunburn makeup and beach shorts are very good. In addition, the designer retains its iconic crystal elements for use on slippers.

Sans Titre Spring/Summer 2017 Men's Collection | Image Source: The other party provides

Photographer Jumbo Tsui, the second season of collaboration with Xu Jiazheng, creative director and designer at Sans Titre, is a gentleman at work, integrating the brand's main pajamas and wrap-around coats into the tooling. element. The slender silhouette is painted on the body, and the fabric and craft are quite textured. At present, all products of the brand are still produced in the studio, and there is a store in Beijing New City International. He said: The brand is trying to "explain the different possibilities of gentlemen's dress."

Chuang Qu 2017 spring and summer menswear series | Image Source: The other party provides

The GQ pushing designer brand Qu Chuang, its designer Qu hit in the middle of the straw showing dozens of design quality and perfect practical single product. The uniform beige color, but the use of a variety of fabrics, and the quality is excellent, after touching, not only love to put it down, but also want to have it immediately. This designer's product fills the gap between the domestic designer brand and the big Chinese brand, and has full development potential. On the second day of the conference, the works displayed today will be put on sale in Changzhuoliang, and it is also a response to the international trend of “buy and watch”.

Feng Chen Wang Spring/Summer 2017 Men's Collection|Source: Provided by the other party

The internationally renowned Feng Chen Wang and Sankuanz set up their own booths here to showcase their new collections. The former designer Wang Fengchen arranged the display space into a friend party. The models wore the works of the Spring/Summer 2017 collection, drinking small wine, playing billiards and playing video games. There is even a heavy locomotive on the scene, which is even pulling the wind. The actual party atmosphere held in the evening is more active and relaxed. Everyone has a smile and a happy atmosphere. On the other hand, Shangguanyi put his co-production music short film with the label "out of the box" and his "Beauty" art works, skateboards and costume products with the artist Zhao Mo in a gallery-like space. The viewer can scan the QR code on the clothes and go to the designer Tmall store to purchase genuine products.

Peng Chen Spring/Summer 2017 Men's Collection|Source: Provided by the other party

In the last season, at the Shanghai Fashion Week, Peng Chen, who was favored by buyers, reflected his feelings of “non-sinking and floating” in the past six months through his new series and conference. Presumably, this designer has given himself a lot of pressure in the past few months. After all, if he is famous for his down jacket, it is very difficult for him to make a sense of continuity and self-breakthrough in spring and summer. Taking self-struggling as a starting point, he used life jackets as his soul source, combining the elements of impetuous and straps to represent the brightly colored fabrics of his turbulent mood. A pink vest shaped like a life jacket is very nice. In profile, he continued his famous exaggerated down jacket graduation design, but switched to a high-foam, lightweight fabric that interprets the concept of a down jacket that can be worn in summer.

At the beginning of the press conference, a dancer performed a performance near the wizard on the ring stage, panicked, helpless, and overwhelmed. The designer said: This role is actually a microcosm of his and brand development. But as one model walked out, the dancer calmed down. At the end, the dancer and all the models closed their eyes and meditated, and they found a moment of silence.

Interestingly, the impressive tentacles of the designer's graduation design have become backpacks this season, and the two fangs are the same. The designer called this a symbol of maleism. But the change behind the corner of the head is actually the embodiment of the designer's growth.

Junwei Lin Spring/Summer 2017 Men's Collection|Source: Provided by the other party

Lin Biao, a designer currently studying at Parsons School of Design in New York, has infinitely magnified her obsession with models in the display of her eponymous brand Junwei Lin. Cui Dan, the fashion director of Zhizhan GQ magazine, described her story and mystery. In fact, her graduation design has received a lot of attention. As the youngest of the six designers, the series called “Broken Romance” has a distinctive character in design and style. The torn effect of the suit and check shirt, the traditional men's dress is full of adolescent incitement, is the designer's fantasy of love? Or is it a temporary feeling of emotion? Of course, there is room for improvement in the work of clothes. In any case, the series shows the designer's great potential. It is even more expecting that she will hand over the answer sheet after she returns to school.

Staffonly 2017 spring and summer menswear series | Image Source: The other party provides

The Staffonly show is the most exciting. Zhou Shimo and Wen Ya have worked hard on the design of the duo. The coats, jackets and trousers are full of ingenuity, and the huge sleeves are very fashionable. And on the display, they are on the next level. The use of makeup, headwear and tattoos greatly enhances the concept behind the design. KKtP's shoes also contribute to the integrity of the narrative. If the clothes displayed in the Tube Showroom are impressive, they are ready to go international through today's show.

Wenya, one of the designers, told BoF that the design was originally inspired by Mod, but later developed into a chemical that is also amphetamine. Amphetamine was used as a potent sedative at the beginning of its invention, but it has now been abused, causing negative social impacts and leaving its own unique identity in popular culture. They printed the chemical formula of the substance on the model's arm. Even the benzene ring was further elucidated into the symbol of the mysterious organization formed by their brains this season. The attentive audience will find that the large aura worn by the model is divided into white and dark black. The two people who came out at the end of the show also represented the resistance of the two forces. The two groups following the model represent the believers absorbed by this fictional mysterious organization. The use of amateur models enhances the realism of the show. And people can't help but think of the MW Gosh of Jamie xx, the ritual is very strong.

2017 Spring/Summer Men's Collection | Image Source: The other party provides

And Pronounce pulled the curtain of today's "GQ One Day". The details of the clothes created by the designers of Li Yushan and Zhou Jun are so rich that they are dizzying. They used the buckle as the focus of this season's design, decorating or connecting the clothes in different sizes. Other designers on display today may be good at telling stories and creating a rich brand image, while the focus of the brand's display is all focused on the clothes themselves.

Open the shape and look at each piece of clothing. It is a mature piece with great desire. Whether it's windbreaker, jacket or wide-leg pants, it's fashionable and can be worn every day. The balance of fashion creativity and commerciality between the two designers is the most accurate among the six designers presented today. Compared with the previous season, they have tightened the coverage a lot. After more concentration, the image of the brand quickly became clear, and the ingenuity on each piece of clothing was more prominent.

Deepmoss Spring/Summer 2017 Collection | Image Source: The other party provides

In addition to the strong male hormones of “GQ One Day”, Xintiandi’s main show is still dominated by women’s wear. Leaf Xia, Yohanix, and Awaylee all have colorful designs and swaying skirts. But the most impressive of these is the Deepmoss Spring/Summer 2017 collection brought by Liu Xiaolu, a designer who graduated from Central Saint Martin. This gentleman who is good at creating a light sense this season, in addition to the still white, also uses a lot of dark blue and brick red tone, with a transparent silk fabric and a synthetic fabric with flowing luster as the original matt The cotton and linen covered with a layer of halo.

This is the Persian impression in the designer's mind. She found inspiration in an ancient book brought back by Paris and in the film Pomegranate Colors. The hat of the traditional Persian headscarf on the head of the mannequin turned. The cross pattern commonly used in Persian traditional painting climbed up the back or waistline of the shirt. The buttons of the mother-of-pearl were faintly faint, making them look like a The girl who came out of the picture. The designer's bare paint, bare face, face and fingertips are stained with silver paint, adding an unreal sense of the future. Persian of Deepmoss is not just about the past.