Yarn Bao Xiao think tank: knowledge of knitting fabrics

Knitting is a fabric formed by bending a yarn into a loop by a knitting needle and staking them together. Knitted fabrics differ from woven fabrics in that they have different shapes in the fabric. Knitting is divided into weft knitted fabric and warp knitted fabric. At present, knitted fabrics are widely used in apparel fabrics and linings , home textiles and other products, and are popular among consumers.

(1) Weft knitted fabrics are often made of low-elastic polyester yarn or special-shaped polyester yarn, nylon yarn, cotton yarn, wool yarn, etc., using flat needle structure, changing flat needle structure, ribbed flat needle tissue, double ribbed flat needle tissue, jacquard Tissue, terry, etc., woven on various weft knitting machines. It has many varieties, generally has good elastic elongation, soft fabric, strong anti-wrinkle, strong hair feel, and easy to dry. However, its hygroscopicity is poor, the fabric is not stiff enough, and it is easy to disperse and curl. The chemical fiber fabric is easy to fluff, pilling and hooking.

There are mainly the following varieties:

1. Polyester yarn-dyed knitted fabric : The color of the fabric is bright, beautiful, with color tone, the texture is tight and thick, the texture is clear, the hair style is strong, and there is a woolen tweed style. Mainly used for men's and women's tops, suits, windbreakers, vests, skirts, cotton jacket fabrics, children's wear, etc.;

2, polyester knitted fabric : This fabric is tight and thick, firm and wearable, crisp and flexible. If the raw material is made of spandex containing spandex, it can be woven into elastic knit denim with better elasticity. Mainly used for trousers for men and women;

3, polyester knit wick fabric : the fabric is well-defined, thick and full, strong elasticity and warmth. Mainly used for men's and women's tops, suits, windbreakers, children's wear and other fabrics;

4, polyester cover cotton knitted fabric : the fabric dyed after the shirt, jacket, sportswear fabric. The fabric is crisp and anti-wrinkle, firm and wear-resistant, and it is moisture-absorbing and breathable on the body, soft and comfortable;

5, artificial fur needle fabric : fabric feel thick, soft, warm. According to different varieties, it is mainly used for coat fabrics, garment linings, collars, hats, etc. Artificial fur is also woven by warp knitting.

6, velvet knitted fabric : fabric feel soft, thick, firm and wearable, fluffy thick towering, soft color. Mainly used as outerwear fabric, collar or hat material. It can also be made by weaving, for example: warp knitted looped fabric;

7. Hong Kong-style knitted woolen cloth : It has the smooth, soft and bulky feel of cashmere fabric, and the silk fabric has the characteristics of soft gloss, good drape, no shrinkage and breathability. Mainly used as spring, autumn and winter fashion fabrics.

(2) Warp knitted fabrics are often made of synthetic filaments such as polyester, nylon, vinylon and polypropylene, and are also woven from cotton, wool, silk, hemp, chemical fiber and blended yarn. The utility model has the advantages of good longitudinal dimensional stability, firmness of the fabric, small dissociation, no curling, good air permeability and the like. However, its lateral extension, elasticity and softness are not as good as weft-knitted fabrics.

There are mainly the following types:

1. Polyester warp-knitted fabric : The cloth surface is flat and the color is bright, and it is thick and thin. The thin type is mainly used for shirts and skirt fabrics; the medium-thick and thick type can be used for men's and women's clothing, windbreakers, tops, suits, trousers and other fabrics;

2, warp knitted fabric: mainly used for winter men's and women's coats, windbreakers, tops, trousers and other fabrics, fabric drapability, easy to wash, fast drying, non-iron, but in the use of static electricity accumulation, easy to absorb dust;

3, warp knitted mesh fabric: taking the mesh fabric texture is light, elastic and breathable, feel smooth and soft, mainly used as summer men's and women's shirt fabric;

4, warp knitted velvet fabric: surface fluff thick towering, feel thick, full, soft, flexible, warm, good for winter clothing, children's clothing fabric;

5, warp knitted terry fabric: This fabric has a full and thick hand, the body is firm and thick, elastic, hygroscopic, warm, good terry structure, good performance, mainly for sportswear, lapel T-shirt , sleepwear, children's wear and other fabrics.

The difference between the basic structure of warp knitting and weft knitting:

Warp knitting with multiple yarns while looping along the longitudinal (warp direction) of the fabric

Weft knitting with one or more yarns in the order of the transverse (weft) of the sector

Weft-knitted knitwear can be formed with at least one yarn, but in order to improve production efficiency, a plurality of yarns are generally used for weaving; and a warp-knitted fabric is a fabric that cannot be formed, one yarn Only a loop of one coil can be formed. The textile printing and dyeing clothing information platform is the most influential WeChat self-media in the textile printing and dyeing garment industry.

All weft knits can be detached into a line in the reverse weaving direction, but the warp knit can not.

Warp knit fabrics cannot be hand woven.

Warp knitted fabrics are divided into two categories:

One is Raschel fabric, the main feature is that the flower shape is large, the cloth surface is rough, and there are many holes, mainly for decorative fabric;

The second is tricol fabric, the fabric is fine and the color is small, but the output is high. It is mainly used for covering fabrics and printed fabrics. These fabrics are mostly used for chemical fiber filaments, otherwise the production efficiency is extremely low.

(1) Yarns of knitted fabrics

Pure cotton yarn is a single yarn or strand with a certain degree of fineness and unlimited length, which is made of cotton and is suitable for weaving, knitting, thread making, rope making, etc. The specifications are usually expressed in English counts. The inch count (Ne) of cotton yarn is defined as the length code of a cotton yarn with a weight of one pound. Calculation of the inch count of cotton yarn: When the moisture regain rate is specified, the cotton yarn with a weight of one pound is a few 840 yards, which is called a few inches. Such as: containing 32 840 yards, it is called 32 British, and so on.

(2) Classification of yarn count

Coarse yarn: 18-inch and below pure cotton yarn, mainly used for weaving thick fabrics or pile-up cotton fabrics.

Medium yarn: 19-29 inches of pure cotton yarn. Mainly used for general requirements of knitwear. Fine yarn: 30-60 inch cotton yarn. Mainly used for high-grade cotton fabrics. Finer yarn: 60-thread cotton yarn for high-grade cotton.

(3) Carding and combing

Carded yarn: refers to the yarn spun by the carded spinning process, also known as uncombed yarn.

Combed yarn: A yarn produced by using high-quality cotton fiber as a raw material, which is produced by adding a combing process to a carded yarn.

(4) The weight of knitted fabrics

The weight is usually the weight of the square fabric. Gram weight is an important technical indicator for knitted fabrics. In knit products, in general, the heavier the weight, the thicker the texture of the fabric.

(1) Using the flexibility of knitted fabrics

Knitted fabrics have good stretchability, and can minimize seams, pleats, splicing, etc. designed for styling during model design. Secondly, knitted fabrics are generally not suitable for the use of the technique of retraction and ironing. Instead, they use the elasticity of the fabric itself or the appropriate application of the wrinkle technique to suit the human body curve. Then the size of the fabric's flexibility becomes an important basis for the design of the model.

The sample of woven garments is generally larger than the area required for wrapping the human body, that is, it has a certain amount of looseness relative to the human body; and the knitted fabrics are particularly flexible fabrics according to the fabric structure used. The yarn is related to the structure.) When designing the sample, not only does it not leave a loose amount, but its sample size can be the same as the human's circumference size, and the size can be reduced by considering the elastic coefficient.

(2) Using the curling property of knitted fabrics

The curling property of the knitted fabric is the edge fabric wrapping phenomenon due to the disappearance of the stress in the edge coil of the fabric. Curling is a disadvantage of knitted fabrics. It can cause unevenness in the seam of the garment piece or dimensional change of the edge of the garment, which ultimately affects the overall styling effect of the garment and the size of the garment. However, not all knitted fabrics have curling properties, but fabrics of individual structure such as weft knitted fabrics. For this kind of fabric, the embossing can be carried out by inserting and arranging the embossing. Or the method of piping and inlaying the edge of the garment to solve the problem. The curling of some knitted fabrics has been eliminated during the finishing of the fabric, avoiding the trouble of the design of the template. It should be pointed out that many designers can take advantage of the fabric's performance and take advantage of the fabric's curling properties. They are designed at the neckline and cuffs of the model, so that the garment has a special appearance and is refreshing. In particular, in the weaving of the formed garment, it is also possible to form a unique pattern or dividing line by utilizing its curling property.

(3) Pay attention to the dissociation of knitted fabrics

Knitted fabrics are different in style and characteristics from woven fabrics. The style of their garments must not only emphasize the advantages of fabrics but also overcome their shortcomings. Due to the dispersibility of individual knitted fabrics, it is necessary to pay attention to the design and production of some knitted fabrics. Do not use too much exaggeration techniques. Try not to design provincial and cutting lines as much as possible, and the stitching seams should not be too much to prevent the occurrence of knitting stitches. The dispersal affects the wearing of the garment, and should be consistent with the soft and versatile style of the knitwear using simple and soft lines.

Knitted fabrics are fabrics that are connected by loops of the coils and are a large variety of fabrics. Knitted fabrics have good elasticity, moisture absorption, comfort and warmth. They are the most widely used fabrics for children's wear. The raw materials are mainly natural heat fibers such as cotton and linen, and also the chemical fiber knitted fabrics such as nylon, acrylic, polyester, etc. It has many appearances and unique features. In the past, it was mostly used in underwear, T-shirts, etc. Nowadays, with the development of the knitting industry and the birth of new finishing technology, the wearing performance of knitted fabrics has been greatly improved, and it is suitable for almost all types of children's wear.

Woven knitwear can be used in a wide variety of materials, including cotton, wool, silk, hemp, chemical fiber, and blended or conjugated yarns thereof. Knitted material is soft, in addition to good wrinkle resistance and breathability, it also has greater extensibility and elasticity, suitable for underwear, tights and sportswear. The knitted fabric can also be used as a garment after changing the structure and improving the dimensional stability. Knitted fabrics can be woven into grey fabrics, cut and sewn into various knitwear, or directly woven into fully formed or partially formed products such as socks and gloves.

In addition to underwear, outerwear, socks, gloves, hats, sheets, bedspreads, curtains, mosquito nets, carpets, lace and other clothing, living and decorative fabrics, knitted fabrics are also widely used in industrial, agricultural and medical fields. Such as filter cloth for dust removal, high pressure pipe for oil and gas transmission, padding cloth for rubber and plastic industry, oil boom for oil port, safety net for construction, packaging bag for agricultural and sideline products, low pressure hose for irrigation and fertilization, crops Cut nets, protect nets for slopes, fishing nets, artificial blood vessels, artificial heart valves, bandages and knee pads. The disadvantage of knitted fabrics is that they are easy to hook and the size is difficult to control.

Source: Jin Kun Ying Textile

Finishing and editing: Yarn Point