In the first year of the “Thirteenth Five-Year Planâ€, around the main line of promoting supply-side structural reforms, all walks of life are intensifying their efforts to innovate products to meet different terminal needs. In order to better lead the industry to promote new products, improve quality, create brands, and promote the adjustment and upgrading of the industry structure, this magazine has opened a series of reports on “demand is the way – see the fiber research and development direction from the terminal demandâ€, through the three majors of clothing, home textiles and industrial use. The perspective of the terminal field, combined with the application of some chemical fiber products, analyzes the research and development direction of chemical fiber products, and provides ideas for the future development of the company. Fiber materials are the basis of fashionable and innovative design. In recent years, the vigorous development of chemical fiber has made fashion industry more fashionable, and more and more designers are trying new and more future-oriented design concepts. Understanding the latest needs of designers, fiber development will be more targeted, so that designers can be handy and achieve a better life. Outdoor casual wear: the function should fall on the actual experience Material innovation should start from three different dimensions. The first is the function, to use moisture wicking, waterproof and moisture permeable, antibacterial and deodorant to improve the wearing comfort of the fabric; secondly, the customer experience, to allow consumers to recognize, identify, willing to pay for the function; the last is environmental safety, with With the improvement of people's living standards, textile safety will receive more and more attention. In recent years, with the continuous pursuit of safety protection and healthy living, the outdoor clothing industry is booming. Whether it is experiential travel or professional outdoor subdivision and focus, outdoor clothing is attracting more and more attention and respect from modern people. . Outdoor clothing is different from ordinary clothing and sportswear, and its biggest feature is its material functionality and clothing functionality. Outdoor casual wear In general, outdoor clothing functional materials can be divided into three categories according to actual needs and application trends: First, durability and durability, such outdoor materials must withstand environmental and time tests, such as light fastness. It is resistant to perspiration and yellowing. The basic physical properties of the material itself such as stretching, abrasion resistance and tear resistance are higher than those of ordinary clothing. The second is protective, such materials require waterproof, moisture-proof, wind-proof, sun-proof, anti-oil and other protective. Third, comfort, combined with outdoor environment and exercise intensity, this type of outdoor material emphasizes comfort more than ordinary sports materials, such as moisture absorption and quick drying, bacteriostatic, lightweight, imitation cotton, elastic recovery, hollow warmth, heat storage and heat generation. , anti-mosquito and so on. Cai Zhiyi, an engineer at Pathfinder Holdings Group Co., Ltd., believes that waterproofing and moisture permeability are the eternal theme of outdoor materials. In terms of water repellency, the future should focus on the development of water-repellent polyester or nylon fiber, as well as environmentally friendly fluorine-free waterproofing auxiliaries. However, both fiber and auxiliaries require water-repellent durability after dyeing, finishing, and multiple washings. Sex. The moisture permeability directly indicates whether the garment is comfortable, and the fiber enterprise has a lot of development space in the future. At present, there are a lot of functional textile materials on the market, but Cai Zhiyi found that some of the materials have some functions that cannot be characterized or the test results are not completely consistent with the actual experience. "The functional propaganda concept of some materials on the market is greater than the actual effect. For example, some materials have high water pressure resistance of 1000~20000mmH2O, but after the actual rain exceeds 30 minutes, the inner humidity of the fabric begins to increase, and the wearing is moist. Another example is that some light-absorbing or infrared-heating materials have data support during the test, but there is no special feeling when actually wearing or dark weather.†Cai Zhiyi appealed that the functionality of the material should fall on the actual experience, and the indicators are not beneficial. . Wu Anfu, head of the material development comprehensive group of Li Ning (China) Sporting Goods Co., Ltd., expressed his understanding of the fiber through the analysis of the structure of outdoor sportswear. He introduced that there is a relatively stable environment between the human body and the clothes, which can also be called microclimate. To achieve the comfort of microclimate, it is necessary to manage two indicators, namely temperature and humidity. To solve these two "degrees", we need material innovation. Wu Anfu believes that material innovation should start from three different dimensions. The first is the function, to use moisture wicking, waterproof and moisture permeable, antibacterial and odor resistant to improve the wearing comfort of the fabric; secondly, the customer experience, the function does not stay on the standard, and ultimately requires the consumer to recognize, agree, and willing to pay for the function; It is environmentally safe. With the improvement of people's living standards, textile safety will receive more and more attention. With the refinement of sports programs, the changes in consumption habits and the demands of professional functions, different types of sportswear have put forward corresponding demands on fiber materials. "Basketball equipment needs to have a strong suction and discharge function. Tennis equipment requires a strong sun protection function. This requires more specialized fiber materials, a more refined market, more unique functions, and a more healthy quality of life." Anfu said. Swimsuit Cai Zhiyi proposed that outdoor products should be balanced in appearance and appearance when worn everyday. Currently, fabrics woven with super-imitation cotton and shrinking silk on the market have rich hairiness and superior performance, and the color and recovery of bicomponent fibers in fabrics Better performance, the health and safety of environmentally friendly fibers are recognized by consumers. In addition, the current leisure sportswear not only pays attention to the traditional functions such as looseness and comfort, but also injects the current trend of fashion, reflecting the concept of “health, youth and vitality†of casual dress. For casual sportswear, “moisture wicking, lightness and elasticity†has become a basic popular element. “Cool, antibacterial and anti-UV†is the pursuit of healthy clothing. The combination with electronic technology is the development direction of health and leisure. The development and application of fine-denier flexible fibers, profiled moisture-conducting fibers and hybrid functional fibers provide a basic guarantee and a new trend for fashion. At present, the chemical fiber industry has special shaped moisture-conducting polyester fiber, shaped polypropylene fiber, ultra-fine denier polyamide 6, polyester, polypropylene fiber, high temperature resistant polyurethane fiber, anti-UV polyamide 6 fiber and other products can be used in leisure sports. Clothing field. Denim: Elastic, wearable, breathable, sustainable is an eternal theme Combining the characteristics of denim in different applications, experts predict that elasticity, wear, breathability, softness, lightness and so on will be the key words of the future trend, and green environmental protection will be the eternal theme. With nearly 200 years of history, denim fabrics still occupy the fashion stage this season. Young and stylish, it is suitable for matching with other fabrics, making denim always a fashion darling. From the workers' uniforms to the signs of youth, rebellion, subversion, and dresses for high-level occasions, this ordinary fabric has become a fashionable fashion with the designer. Jeans So how can a fiber company get on the fast fashion of the denim fashion darling? According to the observer of Beijing Luohua Capital Industry, cowboys have faced the crisis of being replaced by tight pants. In the face of this crisis, manufacturers have put more emphasis on the comfort of consumers as the focus of research and development, and integrated functional fibers into traditional cowboys. In the role of UV protection, waterproof and moisture absorption, there are products such as super-elastic denim, knitted denim, tight-fitting sweat-absorbent denim. At the same time, denim fabrics are becoming lighter and lighter, meeting the needs of consumer sports. “The survey shows that denim fiber – memory high-elastic yarn (composite PTT and PET), high-performance polyurethane fiber and hydrophilic dye-dyed cotton fiber have the highest evaluation in the denim field,†he said. 茜茜 Prediction, elasticity, wear, breathability, softness, thinness and lightness are some of the key words of the trend of denim. At the same time, green environmental protection will also be the eternal theme of the cowboy future. Jeans Not long ago, in the WeChat circle of friends, "Every piece of jeans you wear is destroying our future" article, the denim industry has been criticized. Sun Ruizhe, vice president of the China National Textile and Apparel Council, said in response to this incident: "We must look at the development of the industry with a good eye. There are gaps in the current industry from the perspective of many years ago." As Sun Ruizhe said, China has made great progress in the development of environmentally friendly denim fiber. Yibin Silka Co., Ltd. launched the Riya Blue denim fiber this year. Made from 100% pure natural wood pulp, Liya Blue Denim Fiber can be completely degraded, has a small load on the natural environment, and has good water absorption, gas permeability and skin-friendly properties. It is dyed with special environmentally friendly indigo dye. Re-spun into denim yarn, which reduces the pollution of the traditional indigo dyeing process and the dye oxidation process, and can be produced in small batches. In the production process of fabrics and garments, it can also reduce the damage of blue dust to people and the environment; in the process of finishing washing, due to the high color fastness of the products, the energy consumption of hydropower can also be reduced. The patented innovative technology of short processing, less pollution, and fiber dyeing overcomes the defects of traditional denim dyeing unevenness, and can also express the traditional washing effect of traditional denim, bringing more safe and healthy to producers and consumers. Protection is a new type of green fiber. jeans It is understood that Liya Blue has received great attention from major clothing brands at home and abroad, and orders have gradually increased. For example, Lilang, Baoxin Bird, H&M and other well-known apparel companies have been environmentally friendly and healthy for Liya blue denim fiber. The table shows great affirmation, and the selected denim fabric is also in the production process of the stakeout. Denim fabric manufacturers, such as Guangdong Hong Kong Textile, Jin Yixiang, Zhuo Yi, Yao Lai, Jiangsu Hengliang, Fuheng, Judi Ge and other companies are also actively developing Liya blue fabrics. In addition, depending on the application, denim wears attention to "breathable, elastic, wear-resistant, soft"; the work clothes in the workshop must not only be "wear-resistant, stain-resistant, easy to wash and dry", but also "moisture wicking, anti-static, Washable, anti-wrinkle and non-scaling; special functional clothing according to the work, in the "anti-static, flame retardant, high temperature, corrosion, anti-static, anti-mosquito, anti-radiation, anti-arc" and other aspects of demand. According to the requirements of tooling, the “wear resistance, breathability and elasticity†of denim fiber are common development factors and fashion trends. At present, the chemical fiber industry has high elasticity polyurethane fiber, hydrophilic dyeable imitation cotton polyester fiber, flame retardant dye-free regenerated cellulose fiber, Tencel, high elastic PTT/PET composite fiber and many other fiber varieties can be used in the denim field. 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Fiber makes life more fashionable and diverse!